Glass can be built into functional modules in conventional ways. However, the Dutch building code requires a lot of glass, namely at least half of the floor area from 60 cm above the floor. This is about daylight, not about views. This amount means that you need wall sections that are only there to provide the required glass - a pity because of the warmer climate, but so be it.

Of course, it is not forbidden - perhaps after completion - to apply removable or non-removable insulation to the glass - think of shutters.

Since glass is quite heavy, it can be useful to make the glass itself removable.

Because the entire building can be disassembled, there are more mounting possibilities for glass than usual.

For a traditional look, we place glass with glass rubbers in a metal U, F, A or H profile or in a framework of four wooden beams. These can then be coupled with linking beams.

The easiest way to do this is to have vertical linking beams on the inside of the building, possibly with fire-resistant cladding, and on the outside you have horizontal linking beams with sun and rain protection on them, preferably with a sloping top and so smooth that the pigeons slide off.

If you don't think clean windows are the most important thing, you can integrate a planter in them. A planter on the inside and the outside would be very nice. Below, in the ground of the planters, they could be connected to each other with holes. Then all you have to do is water from the inside out when it's not raining.

Usually, parts with windows will not have to be load-bearing. If so, vertical poles can be added to the outside of the building.

A simple construction, I think, is:

• Put the glass all around in a rubber U-profile with strips that swell up in case of fire.

• On the outside, take a wooden beam with a stainless steel or zinc covering (and perhaps also a planter) that runs under the glass. The wooden beam underneath is therefore protected from rain and sun and the beam itself serves as sun protection. Do take into account electrolytic rust formation, so preferably use one type of metal for everything.

• Place the glass (which is in the rubber frame) as a whole on the window sill. Do not put screws from the top through the zinc or stainless steel so that no water can run along the screws. The glass holds the zinc.

• On the outside, place a batten vertically over the window or two adjacent windows. With locking bolts, the window can only be dismantled from the inside; then you can see nuts on the inside, but these can be countersunk sleeve nuts.

• The glass can be made waterproof with tape. Then you can even come up with constructions without rubbers.

At the transition between glass and curtain wall, the curtain wall must turn the corner to the inside, to the window.

You can place a planter on either side of a window, or you can place the window in a planter:

Take a planter that runs from the inside to the outside, for example 600mm from the inside to the outside, 150mm high and window wide. Place the window in the middle of this container with a little distance from the bottom. You then have about 300mm of plants on both sides of the window and the ground is connected to each other under the glass.

Unfortunately, this is difficult with double glazing because this is sealed all around with probably a material that cannot withstand constant humidity. You could make the complete planter out of glass foam plates and then also place a glass foam plate in the middle on which the window glass can stand.

You can place vertical beams outside the planters. As such they form the inner and outer skeleton. You can let the sides of the planter run through along the window glass, which makes them the side boards of the window element. Together with the vertical bars, these then form a strong I-bar.

The side plates must be weatherproof, which is ecologically difficult. There are reasonably weather-resistant sheets, but if they are not made of concrete or glass foam they have to be coated with a concrete layer, tiles, PVDF or something similar, which is often not ecologically desirable. The watertightness between all plates is also difficult. If the underside of the planter slopes obliquely outwards, then everything may not need to be completely watertight.

You can let the planter go under several windows and then put the side plates themselves in this container. I would leave the vertical bars outside the trays.

The curtain wall can also be made of glass and then continue in double glazing where there are windows. Any awnings and planters would then protrude from the building.

You can also, as it were, replace the fire resistant plate of a module with glass having rubber all-round. You have to consider how broken glass can be replaced.

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